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The Gallery of Horyu-ji Treasures

by John McGee

An impressive display of early Buddhist sculptures inside the Gallery of Horyu-ji Treasures (Photos by Shunji Kitajima, courtesy Tokyo National Museum)

Nestled in one of Tokyo' finest outdoor spaces is one of the capital's finest indoor spaces: The Gallery of Horyu-ji Treasures (Horyu-ji Homotsukan) in Ueno Park. This relatively recent addition to the Tokyo National Museum's complex at the north end features religious and cultural objects from the earliest stages of Buddhism in Japan. 

Prince Shotoku Taishi (574-622 AD) founded Horyu-ji Temple in Nara in the seventh century. Recognized as the birthplace of Buddhism in Japan, Horyu-ji was one of the first and most important temples for the dissemination of the newly imported religion. And it continues to impress: Its well-preserved wooden buildings are now a UNESCO World Heritage site. 

In 1878, the temple donated over 300 items to the Imperial Household. The first Gallery of Horyu-ji Treasures opened in Ueno in 1964. Pressure for greater public access, however, led to the current modernist showcase, designed by Yoshio Taniguchi, in 1999. (Taniguchi is well known as the architect entrusted with the expansion of the Museum of Modern Art in New York.) 

A narrow bridge leads over the hard-edged rectangular reflecting pool in front of the building, through the glass facade, and into the high, airy lobby. Inside this luminous box is the darkened mustiness of a treasure house, the heart of the museum. Many objects in the museum collection are rotated regularly, such as painting, calligraphy, religious robes, Gigaku masks, metal jugs and incense holders, wooden musical instruments, and lacquer writing implements. 

Close up of a Buddhist sculpture on
display in the Gallery of Horyu-ji
Treasures

Permanent displays include an elaborate hanging bronze ceremonial banner and, in Gallery 2, the ultimate, blister-pack-perfect Buddhist action figure collection. Inside each sleek glass trophy case, one miniature Buddhist statue (around 30-40cm tall) is sealed tighter than John Travolta in his plastic bubble. A small army of these mostly Asuka Period (6th-7th century), gilt bronze Boddhisatvas and Buddhas sit, stand and gesture. Hands up, hands down, in, out—the variety of mudras (hand gestures) is a rich, pre-parapara (a popular dance trend among Japanese youth) discourse on theme and variation. Parents taking their children to see these sculptures, be forewarned: The Asuka style favored the hunched shoulders and prominent stomachs kids love but moms abhor.

These little sculptures are more than just cute figurines. They were primarily used for private worship and help illustrate an evolutionary link bridging continental Asian (Indian, Chinese and Korean) Buddhist imagery and later Japanese adaptations. For cross reference, check the contemporaneous examples of Korean and Chinese sculptures mixed into this display. 

For in-depth study, the museum's entire collection is stored on digital archives (with Japanese, English, Chinese, Korean and French explanations), accessed on computers in the museum reference library. 

Finally, if the art leaves you satisfied but famished, the museum cafe offers light meals and beverages.

The Gallery of Horyu-ji Treasures is part of the Tokyo National Museum and is located in Ueno Park in Ueno, Tokyo, Japan.

©2006 John McGee

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